YOUR PORTABLE GENERATOR BUYING GUIDE


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HOW DOES IT WORK



There are many cases when grid is not available and you may need electric power: during blackouts, on camping trips or on a job site. A portable genereator is intended to temporarily provide electricity by using a fossil-based fuel. A typical model contains the following primary components that are mounted together onto a metal frame in a single appliance: internal combustion engine, alternator (electric generator itself), starter, control devices, control panel with outlets, protective devices, and a fuel tank. Before you start your device you need to add fuel (or connect it to a fuel line). Before the first use you also need to add engine oil and periodically check its level. After you start the engine let it warm up for five minutes. Then you can plug in and turn on your electrical loads one at a time, or connect it to a transfer switch pre-wired to selected circuits in your home.


The engine burns the fuel and drives a shaft that spins an electromagnet inside a coil (see how do generators work). Such a system is often referred to as engine-generator set or genset. Unlike standby systems, portables normally are not permanently installed and can be easily moved from place to place.



They can be very handy after the loss of electricity in the wake of a storm or other unforeseen circumstance, as well as on the jobsite or camp site. There are more than ten million of such devices in US households, and about one million units is bought per year according to US Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). Homeowners are the largest buyers of light-duty gensets, accounting for about half of light duty sales, primarily in the 3 to 10 kW range. Portable home generators are currently available for sale in the power range from 500 watt to 17.5 kW.

BASIC FEATURES and SPECIFICATIONS



When buying a genset, consider the following main characteristics.

OUTPUT POWER. Manufacturers usually specify running watts and starting watts. The former is the amount of power the device can produce continuously. The latter is the short burst of power it can produce to run appliances whose surge current can exceed steady state current. Note that manufacturers often advertise their portable gensets by starting watts rather then by running watts. Also note that single-phase gensets are usually rated for loads with power factor PF=1, that is for loads with volt-amps equal to watts. Since all motor-driven appliances (such as refrigerators and air conditioners) as well as old computers and electronics without power factor correction have relatively low PF, their VA demand may be 25-70% higher than their nameplate wattage. For more information, see generator wattage guide.

FUEL TYPE. Depending on the model, genset's engine can run on gasoline, diesel, commercial propane, natural gas, and bio-diesel. Some models can use multiple fuel sources. Your choice of fuel should be determined by how you are going to use the genset and how often. Gasoline models are generally the least expensive. However, this is probably their only advantage. There are plenty articles around written by various "experts" suggesting to get a gas-powered portable generator as a part of a disaster preparedness. In reality, a gasoline model may be a good choice on construction sites and camping trips, but it is not intended for a long-term emergency.
Among the most useful options to consider are electric start, a wheel kit, low T.H.D (<5%) and low oil level sensor.
If you are looking for a reliable backup power device for a possible major blackout, the main factor to consider is how you are going to keep your emergency source fueled. The problem with gasoline is the challenge of storing. Its fumes are highly flammable, which makes storing of large amount of gas unsafe. The NFPA fire code allows storage of no more than 25 gallons in residential buildings. A typical 5000W generator running at rated load will consume this amount of fuel in about 25-30 hours. So, you may run out of fuel in one day, while during a wide-spread power outage gas pumps may not work. Also note that gasoline has a typical shelf life of about six months, although some stabilizers are claimed to extend it for up to 2 years.

In my view, propane, diesel and natural gas are better choices for emergency fuel. As opposed to gasoline, large quantities of diesel and propane can be stored safely in large containers. In addition to this, these types of fuels deteriorate much less over time than gasoline.

Propane has practically unlimited shelf life (well, at least 2 years) and is the only type of fuel that does not require electricity for a refill. Although home improvement stores carry mainly gas gensets, propane models can be found online. Diesel is less flammable than gasoline. It likewise may be not available during a widespread blackout, but it can be stored in large tanks. Diesel gensets are the most efficient and reliable of all types, but they are also the most expensive.
I am not aware of any devices designed specifically to work on biodiesel, but today's diesel gensets will usually run on biodiesel as well. A prototype of a device that works on food, paper and plastic trash has been developed at Purdue University, but currently it aims for a military use.

Natural gas can assure practically unlimited run time, but it is used primarily in permanently installed standby devices. Natural gas powered portable gensets are rare, relatively expensive, and need professional installation of the fuel line, which defeats the purpose of portability.

For a comparison of different types and some little know facts see review and ratings of portable generators. For non-emergency applications price may be the main factor in choosing the right model. If so, a cheap gasoline model may be your first choice. For a disaster preparedness however, the main considerations should be given to the convenience of fuel storage and fuel availability during an emergency. In this case, in my view the preference should be given to diesel and propane.



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